Sunday, March 25, 2007

Streets, Boulders and Horses


Dunedin was charming but short on sights and activities so I was fine with leaving after only one night but I was glad our bus made a quick stop at Dunedin's only claim to fame; The World's Steepest Street.

Baldwin Street reaches angles as steep as 35ยบ which would lead one to believe it was named after Stephen Baldwin's plunging career path but in fact it was named for the city planner who saddled them with this traffic challenge.

The distance from Dunedin to Christchurch is just a little too much for a single days drive so the trip is broken up with a night in LakeTekapo (tek-u-poe), which allows for quite a number of relaxed stops along the way.

The first of these was to see the Moeraki Boulders. Arranged in several clumps strewn along the beach these naturally occurring rocks are almost perfectly spherical.

We had a great deal of fun scrambling up and down them for pictures and just for the fun of it.

Further down the road we saw Mt. Doom again ... sort of. As in most movies Lord of the Rings used multiple locations for different parts of the same set and Mt. Cook was the other mountain utilized to stand in for Middle Earth's dark heart.

(Mt. Doom!!!! ... again ... but different)

As we got close to Tekapo Sonja (not the one from Melbourne but another one from Germany) ran into some trouble. Her camera battery died and she had signed up for a scenic fly over of the Tekapo area. The problem was it only took a special rechargeable battery made for her camera so she had no way to record her flight. Since we had been traveling together a while I took a measured risk and we popped her memory card into my fully charged camera and I let her take it on the plane.
This left me cameraless for the day and dependant on the kindness of one Elizabeth Ramirez of Austin TX to take photos on my behalf. Elizabeth was definitely one of the most enjoyable people I've met on my travels. A real homage to southern charm. Not the plastic, big haired, drawling, artificial smiled beauty queen version of southern charm that we get from TV but just an honest friendly demeanour and a delightful light accent. The smile was just as big as you'd expect but entirely genuine.

There was a pause to check out The Church of The Good Shepherd which is a small weathered stone structure that sits alone at the foot of a glassy lake surrounded by snow capped mountains. A stunning view. I've posted some photos from Aaron, a Scottish friend.

We arrived in Tekapo around mid afternoon which was early enough to take advantage of the local trail ride. I've only been on a horse once before that I can remember and that didn't go well. It was in Nashville Tennessee where I was visiting Mary, my girlfriend of the time. She insisted I try riding her horse but it was a tiny welsh pony. I think the poor thing didn't weigh much more than me and I felt guilty for just getting on it's back. Mary trotted us around the deeply sloping stable yard while warning me to beware the several mounds of fire ants. My girlfriend couldn't understand why I didn't seem to be enjoying myself. This ride went so much better.
I was put on a full sized chestnut horse named Dick. He was a beautiful but a bit stubborn and he was definitely taking advantage of me. Dick kept stopping to graze or just stopping out right on some of the harder hills. This meant I had to try to show him who was boss which meant kicking him in the sides. I know that sounds awful but that's how it's done the angle of a saddle doesn't allow for much force. In fact he didn't even seem to notice. None the less I felt awful doing it which is probably why he was behaving so poorly. He could tell I wasn't going to be very aggressive with him but In the end I think we managed to come to an accord and I really liked it.

(since I don't have the pictures from Elizabeth you'll have to pretend this picture of her is actually me on a horse)
The trail led out through a field that looked exactly like the set of a classic western, then though the woods to an open plain on a mountain side overlooking Lake Tekapo. The view was unbelievable. I'd go Horse riding again in a heart beat. Unfortunately I don't have those pictures yet but they are coming. Elizabeth and I have been trading e-mails and she's still making her way back home but she hasn't forgotten and will get them to me when she gets settled.
Myself, Elizabeth, Stuart (our bus driver) and 3 Irish sisters who had been on our trail ride, finished the day with dinner and drinks in the what was pretty much the only restaurant/pub in town. One of the Irish girls worked for a hotel chain that has a Canadian office and because of that she somehow had the strange impression that St. Thomas Ontario is a really big city instead of the one street town that it is. We had a good laugh about it over desert before walking back under the stars to our hostel, The Tekapo Lake Front Lodge where I reclaimed my camera from Sonja.


(The Lakefront Lodge)
A last note about hostels, you never know what you'll get. The Lake Front was less than two years old and generally well designed and yet the beds were so poorly made that they squeaked loudly if you even shifted your weight minorly. The guilt over possibly waking everyone else up while you got comfortable made it hard to fall asleep. All the same I woke up well rested and ready for Christchurch.

(My morning view from the Lakefront Lodge)

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Friday, February 02, 2007

Wellington prt 3



Anne tried really hard to get me a studio tour but with all the secret pre-production stuff in the studios everything is off limits, even to friends and family of the staff. So on the Tuesday she did take me out to the see the exteriors and into the public reception areas

as well as to the dock where the wreck of the "Venture" (the ship from the new King Kong) is sitting and sinking. I thought it was all pretty cool. And I still feel I got to see what very few others do, and with a bit of an insiders eye.

It was grey, drizzly and which is not uncommon for Wellington, so I took a public bus back into town where I took a city bus tour athat kept me out of the bad weather and let me cover the sights I hadn't made it to on my own.

Which include Mount Victoria (yes that is the second Mt. Victoria I've gone up and they are both on New Zealand's North Island, go figure)

a couple of local "Lord of The Rings" filming locations (they sure are getting a lot of mileage out of those films), the Zoo (where I stopped off for a while and found the place sadly cramped and outdated)

and some stunning views of the shoreline.
I was back in time to take a guided night walk through the Karori bird sanctuary on the edge of town. NZ only had 2 mamals before the europeans arrives so the birds here are being desimated by invading species, especially the Kiwi. Sadly of all the animals we managed to track down that night we could not coax out a Kiwi but we did see a Tuatara. An animal from the prehistoric age that looks like a small lizard but actually exists in it's own seperate family of lizards. They live as much as 200 years and actually have a third eye on the top of there head covered in a membrane of scales. It functions mainly as a heat sensor but may have been more developed and acted as a way to see overhead predators. Sorry, no picture, they're nocturnal, but you can see the cool valve control tower in the center of the park.

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Wednesday, January 31, 2007

MOUNT DOOM!


This is the mountain that was used as Mt.Doom in the Lord of the Rings Trilogy. We stopped on the road from Taupo to Wellington for a snapshot.

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